Friday, May 11, 2012

Blog Post #6 on May 12, 2012


March and April 2012, “And now a few words from Garideth”




After two months we figured it was time to update the blog.  Also we had taken a couple of trips that we wanted to write about.

The South Africa school year begins in January and the first quarter is over at the end of March so now we are into the second quarter.  Merideth has kept her teaching schedule where she spends time at three of the local primary schools.  This involves teaching Grade 7 English, introducing English in Foundation Level classrooms, conducting reading and library time, and visiting a village crèche (pre-school).  If that was not enough, she has just organized after-school English classes for her Grade 7 students.  She stays busy.

My schedule is more of a ‘floating’ plan split between one village primary and the high school as well as on my other projects.  Just recently we were able to get funding to replace the pit toilets at one of the primary schools and I will be busy with that for a few weeks.  In February I agreed to substitute for a Grade 4 and 7 English teacher while she was absent for health reasons.  It started as being for one week, but then expanded to six weeks.   I could somewhat manage the Grade 7 kids but when it came to the Grade 4 learners, it was a disaster.  Not all of them understand English so well and they know I won’t beat them, so they tend to talk a lot and get rowdy.  As the noise level in the room creeps up and up, the constant buss of voices make it impossible to instruct.  As soon as you get one group quieted, another group across the room starts chatting. I tried being threatening.  I tried taking them out on the soccer field to run until they were exhausted and calm.  I tried yelling.  I tried making some sit outside.  I went and got the principal. Nothing was completely successful.  Oh well……nobody told us this would be easy.  In spite of all their classroom antics, they are fun and lovable children.

Our life here in Mmakau has settled down into a routine.   We have most of the comforts of home except a car.  We were both reflecting recently that the longer we are here, the less we miss home.  When we first came to South Africa, I think we pined for what we left behind.  But now, we seem to be into a groove where the things we used to miss and wish for do not seem so important.  We are growing more and more accustomed to village life.  We still complain to each other about aspects of village living like litter and neglect.  We enjoy the warmth and friendliness of the people and can’t help but think they are growing very accustomed to seeing us around.  We know we will never fully blend in because we are the only white people in a village of thousands.  Whenever we go anywhere in the village, folks still check us out or have a double take when we appear.   As long as we can look forward to doing some travelling every so often, it‘s all good.

We are gradually beginning to piece together how life goes here.  The pace is slower so the stress levels are lower.  People do not usually have a car and tend to stroll slowly where they need to go.   Some just seem to sit around a lot.  Unemployment and poverty are high.  People commonly have what appear to us to be boisterous  conversations.  Although it seems like they might be angry, they tell us it is just their way of talking.  Most everyone can speak English but talk to one another in Setswana even when we are present.  We are still baffled by some things that do not happen and are trying to understand why.  It may be we are slowly becoming indoctrinated and assimilated into the culture.  Peace Corps warned us that South Africa would change us way more than we would change it.  That is becoming true.  But don’t worry, as much as we like it, we are not thinking to immigrate.

During the last two months we were able to take a couple of nice trips to two different South African areas.  One of our goals while here is to see all of the nine provinces of South Africa.  For our first six months, we were restricted to the North West Province for training and site orientation.  We live about 5 km from the Gauteng Province border and 45 km from Pretoria.  In December we became free to travel and during early January we visited the Wild Coast in the Eastern Cape Province where we got to enjoy some splendid ocean scenery.  This trip was described in our last blog.

At the end of March we were both busy giving term finals and compiling grades.  (Merideth and I spent one weekend grading over 400 term exams.)  We managed to finish up just in time to pick up a rental car in Pretoria (yahoo I can drive again but it’s on the left hand side of the road!!) and went east 5-6 hours to a town called Sabie in the Mpumalanga Province.  The next day we participated in the Longtom Marathon.  (We opted for the half marathon.)  A few years ago two Peace Corps Volunteers used Longtom as the platform for raising money to send deserving students to a very good middle and high school.  So along with about 50 other Peace Corps Volunteers, we found ourselves walking/trotting Longtom as we promised those that pledged money for the cause.  (Thank you again contributors)  The day proved to be a success on all accounts – we finished in a little over three hours and the funds raised by Peace Corps folks exceeded the goal.  Both of us had tender rear ends the next day since our training was minimal or none.  It was fun – the area has mountains covered with pine tree plantations and is somewhat reminiscent of North Idaho.  It was also fun to see some of our PC cohorts again and hear how they were managing life in ZA. 

We stayed in Sabie a couple of days to relax and to do some hiking.  Sabie’s private pine plantations provide most of the wood products used in South Africa.  One day our B&B host matched us up with a local group of retirees called the Wrinkled Wanderers who invited us on their weekly hike which was to one of their favorite waterfall hikes.  It was a beautiful hike (see the pictures) and so nice to meet this group of local people who graciously invited us along for the hike and lunch.   This was an unexpected surprise.

We had a week off from school so from Sabie we went on to a place called Blyde Canyon for some hiking and sightseeing.  It was also interesting.   From there we drove further east to Kruger National Park which is South Africa’s largest and most famous nature park.  We arrived without reservations so we were unable to stay inside the park at one of the rest camps.  However, we did spend a day driving through the park where we were able to see just from the car plenty of the signature animals like elephants, zebras, springbok, and others many in a herd environment.  We will probably return later this year (this time with reservations at the rest camps) and arrange to go on some of the guided morning or evening game walks where one can see the animals more closely.

After Kruger we drove west to Tzaneen for Easter where we attended Mass given in English by the local bishop.  In our village, all the church services are given in Setswana so this service in Tzaneen was a treat.  In the church yard were avocado trees loaded with fruit and we were able to pick a bag of avocados.  This area is low veld terrain with more rain and a warmer climate than our village.  It is known for fruit growing and farming.   From Tzaneen we drove home and returned the rental car back to Pretoria.  It was definitely a plus to have a car for this trip.

At the end of March two South African holidays (Freedom Day and Workers Day) were so close we had a five day weekend.  So we rented another car and drove south from Pretoria through the Free State Province to a small resort town called Clarens.  Free State is a rolling farming and ranching area with wide open spaces and modest rainfall.  Free State butts up to Lesotho which is the small mountainous, land-locked country completely surrounded by South Africa.  Lesotho became its own country as early settlers found it hard to conquer because the tribes could hide and fight in the mountains.  Besides they saw it had limited agricultural potential and remains today a poor country.  Clarens is an arts center with many galleries, shops and restaurants as well as being close to Golden Gate National Park.  We drove from Pretoria  to Clarens the first day, visited Clarens the second day, took a great hike to the top of Golden Gate Park the third day, went west of Clarens the third day to explore and do some more hiking, and then returned home in time to return to school at the end of the weekend.  This trip gave us a chance to see Free State and look at another face of the South African landscape and experience.

So now we are in May.  The second school term ends the third week of June after which we will have the three week winter break.  In early July the third school term begins and by then we will have been in South Africa for one year.

We are eagerly anticipating our son Devon’s arrival here on May 17th, one day before his 23rd birthday.  We are thrilled that we will be able to celebrate his birthday with him in South Africa.  He is thoroughly excited about coming here and plans on staying in Africa until the end of his summer break from college in August.  We think he will divide up his time staying on and off with us, travelling on his own, travelling with us during our three week winter break (perhaps to the Drakensberg Mountains and the Indian Ocean near Durban), and whatever else he decides to undertake in the way of volunteer work.  He has told us he is looking forward to having some “adventures” during this visit and, being parents, we hope and pray that whatever they are, they are safe and legal.  It should be a blast for him as well as lots of fun for us, and we will report on what happened in future blogs.

We may have other visitors in December when Merideth’s sister visits and our other son Rowan visits.  Cape Town, the ocean, and Kruger trips are likely.  In the meanwhile we will busy ourselves with our work in the school and village. If you can, take a look at the pictures we plan to add to the blog and give us comments.

And that’s the way it was.

March and April 2012 Pictures from ZA


Mosmise teachers having lunch: hammon, Mpho, Modise, and Issac.
Alsom and Marshall - Tsogo HS teachers
Village boys up at the cross on the Mmakau mountain
Mmakau from the cross.
Village meeting on the mining problem.
Tsepho leading the village meeting.
Merideth and the water competition tean at Zeerust.
The Tlhophane group at Zeerust.
Sabie from Longtom Pass on the way to the half marathon.
PCVs Marie, Merideth, Kevin, Tara, and Asha during Longtom.
Jessie, Julie, Eve,merideth,Colin, Howell, Shawn, and Kyle at the Longtom finish.
Merideth with free visor and finish metal at Longtom finish.
Gary with Shawn, Kyle, and Colin at Longtom.
Susan Neel and Merideth at the mining town.
Longtom Pass
Bridal Veil Falls near Glaskop.
Falls

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Leap Day from “And now a few words from Garideth”

On the occasion of Leap Day or February 29th, we thought a new blog post was appropriate to update our time in ZA the last two months.
When we last wrote, it was just after Christmas. On the 30th of December, we took a vacation trip to the Wild Coast which is a stretch of the South African coastline. The trip began by taking the train to the Johannesburg airport, flying two hours to East London, and riding in a taxi to a backpackers in Chintsa, a small town on the Indian Ocean shore. We stayed in Chintsa for ten days enjoying the beautiful pristine beach and relaxing. One day we went to a nearby game reserve and were able to catch sight of a variety of African wild animals like the lion and giraffe pictured below.. The reserve had a large fenced lion enclosure where we were able to see a pride of lions eating their weekly meal of a slaughtered animal. Other days we enjoyed hiking along kilometers of undeveloped and unoccupied beach. I even took surfing lessons one day. Another day we took a guided hike through the nearby village areas eventually ending up on the beach. Swimming was enjoyable because the ocean current here comes from the equator to the north and is warm. However, we discovered that ten days in one isolated place without a car to explore the area was too much. For our next trip, we have vowed to rent a car so we can get around.

This is a view of sunrise from our cabin ands shots we took of one of the white male lions and a giraffe we saw at the game reserve near East London.





The new school year started January 17th. Merideth was asked to teach Grade 7 English at one of the village primary schools and, because they insisted, she reluctantly agreed - at least for a quarter. So three mornings a week she has two hour-long classes with about 40 learners in each. Since this is an English class and we struggle to pronounce some of the names, the learners agreed to adopt English names. If you are reading this blog, it is a good chance that one of these learners has adopted your name because Merideth used names of people she knew. She tells me that the ‘Gary’ in her class is struggling and for some strange reason I feel responsible. I think Merideth is becoming fond of these students. She comes home many days with new stories to tell.
Four days during the week Merideth is also at the other village school where she is working with the Foundation Level teachers to introduce English as a second language. Foundation is Grade R (kindergarten) to Grade 3. The country decided that English needed to begin early in school because, when English is first used for instruction at Grade 4, the kids struggled. So Merideth wanted to demonstrate to the teachers ways to teach these students how to speak English. She spends time in these classrooms with the Setswana speaking teachers there as interpreters.
On Friday Merideth opens the library at the primary school close to our apartment and has separate class groups visit for story time with English instruction. She has a full schedule.
Morning assembly at Tsogo High School with Mr. Malemane leading 700 students in song and prayer.




When schools opened in January I was not so involved with the teaching part of the schools as I was with helping the schools take care of some problems they were having with their water and wastewater systems. I have a list of projects that I am currently working with at all four schools but so far I am finding progress slow. Part of the problems is lack of money and part of the problem is lack of information or cooperation. The range of projects is from installing new pit toilets at one primary school, compost bins for the school kitchens, better incineration methods for school wastes, wastewater disposal improvements, mission water system operation and management, and village water system fact finding. Recently I attended a couple of meetings regarding payments to the Mmakau tribe by two mining operations located in the village. It seems both of these mines have been in operation for over ten years without having contributed any of the 26% of profits as required. One day I witnessed a “toi-toi” march to protest this problem. There is a lot of unemployment and poverty in this village that could be helped by these companies meeting their obligations. Going to court is apparently not considered a viable solution in South Africa because of conflicts of interest and corruption factors.
We have had some problems here at our apartment. First we lost water pressure and it was found that a main delivery line had become totally blocked inside by deposits of scale. The groundwater supplying the mission is very hard – folks here call it salty. If you set a glass of water out, it will soon show a carbonate precipitate floating in the bottom. Soon after the plugged line was replaced, we lost pressure again. Finally the cause was discovered due to a pipe in an unused room below our flat that had corroded and was leaking the entire supply. After a few days, the broken line was fixed and we were back in business. Two days later electricians installed a prepay meter on the power supply to our houses and left us without power until one of the fathers went to the store the next day and loaded the electrical account with credit. We had just gotten power back when we discovered we had no hot water. We get hot water from an electric heater called a geyser – it’s like the hot water heaters in the US except it is mounted inside up high on the wall. A couple of days and a few cold showers later, the electrician came by and opened the geyser to find the element totally covered with scale. We took about a bushel of scale out of the geyser, replaced the element, and now have hot water again. We cannot complain much about all of this because our situation is the envy of most of the other Peace Corps Volunteers. Most of them do not have piped cold or hot water inside their quarters. Most have access to water from a faucet in the yard and make due by hauling water in a bucket and by heating water with a kettle. Now we are back to normal and enjoying reliable living conditions.
Two weeks ago I worked at the nearby high school substituting for a math teacher who was called away to Zimbabwe by a family emergency. Last week and for the next two weeks I will be substituting for a teacher at the village primary school who is having an operation. She teaches Grade 4 and Grade 7 English. I am thinking that long term substituting might become my school role here since none of the schools will hire a replacement teacher when one is absent. In fact, seeing classrooms full of students with no teacher present for part or all of the day has been one of the challenges we faced here. At least I might be able to teach the learners something instead of having them idle. Otherwise I was thinking about tutoring small groups of math(s) students that need help.
To celebrate Valentine’s Day, Merideth and I went to Pretoria by taxi on the 19th and visited a mall for some fun time away from the village. I bought a basketball and a Frisbee. This is a neglected basketball court at the nearby high school that I am rehabilitating. We took in a movie (“The Descendents” which cost us $4 each) and had a nice dinner at a restaurant. There are no restaurants in our village so eating out is a treat. And we finally bought a smart phone! It’s a Blackberry. Most of the other Peace Corps Volunteers use Blackberries so we can message each other for free. So far we have been surprised by the Blackberry with its unlimited email and internet access for just $8 per month.
The other news we received last week is that our son Devon has bought his ticket to come to South Africa this summer. He is leaving Missoula once classes are over in May and staying in Africa until just before classes start again in August. We understand he is trying to arrange with a professor to do some independent study while here as well as spend some time with us in our village. He intends to tour South Africa and other countries. We have a three week winter school break in June-July during which we might travel with Devon to Kruger National Park, the Drakensburg Mountains, the Indian Ocean shore, and Cape Town. Devon has an affinity for Africa and is excited as we are about this adventure. Rowan is also planning to visit perhaps next Christmas. We are thrilled that both of them are coming here to visit.
At the end of March, we get ten days of holiday (vacation) during which we plan to rent a car, do a half marathon in Sabie in Mpumalanga, visit some of the nearby attractions for hiking, and end the week driving through Kruger National Park. The Longtom marathon is part of a fund raiser sponsored by former Peace Corps Volunteers to pay for the education of a worthy student at a prestigious school here in South Africa. (To see more and possibly contribute, go to www.klm-foundation.org). This time we plan to have a car so we can move around freely.
The weather here has been warm but not what we would call unbearably hot or humid. Most days get up to over 30 degrees Celsius so Merideth has become used to walking with an umbrella for shade. At night it cools down. We have two fans in our apartment that we use to keep cooled. Summer is the wet time of year so we have experienced some good rainstorms. The mountainsides are green and the baboons do not come around now very often since they can find food in the veld. A few weeks ago I spotted a large snake but it quickly slithered away. Monkeys have also been spotted recently. The mosquitoes are around but we have sealed all of our windows and sleep some nights under a mosquito net. This is not a malaria area but when we go to Kruger we will take medication for malaria.
This time of year the schools take a select number of learners to local track competitions called Sports Day. One Saturday we went to the nearby town of Brits to a primary school that had amazing track facilities. Under Apartheid this school was generously funded and was able to build great sporting facilities while the African schools got next to nothing. Since Apartheid was eliminated in 1993, schools can select the language of instruction. Since this school chose Afrikaans, no blacks are able to attend because they cannot speak Afrikaans. The school is a white dominated public school. This struck us as so unfair to see the disparity between the village schools that have no sports facilities to this school that had facilities that are better than most US high schools. Needless to say, the athletes from the village did poorly against those able to train on decent facilities. However, the village kids had a blast and enjoyed the outing tremendously.
Four friends enjoying Sports Day. Isaac, Merideth(within the tree), Alfred, and another Isaac on Sports Day.




We want to end this entry with two snapshot stories of our experiences here.
One day when Merideth was at school going to get on her bike to ride to her other school. A crowd of learners were at her bike and when she approached she discovered they were trying to stomp on something on the ground. It was a frog. They had already killed one poor frog. Merideth scolded the children about hurting an innocent creature and scooped the frog up into her hands. This freaked out the kids and scattered them away in fear. As she delivered the frog to the safety of nearby bushes, another student came to her with a second rescued frog. What is amazing about this story is that these village kids don’t behave like country kids who like to deal with bugs and such – they are more like city kids afraid of dogs, snakes, and spiders. This brief encounter was the highlight of Merideth’s day.
The other story: When I was helping the electrician fix our geyser, we took the element to the local hardware and building material store. The element was stuck to the collar that attaches it to the geyser. Everything we had done to separate it was fruitless. Without much pleading, the guys at the store took the part into the backroom and started to work on separating the collar from the busted element. We followed but stood back to watch as the men tried their best to separate the collar. After working on it for about an hour, they managed to drill the element out and cleanly remove it from the collar. We bought a new element for $25 and they charged us nothing for their efforts. What struck me about this situation was that the black and Afrikaner employees at this store were working side by side on this problem as equals with no attention to who they were - just what they were doing. They were companions with a common goal. It’s my belief this is a picture of where South Africa is going in the future. A country where people work side by side with only the task at hand foremost.
And that’s the way it was.

Saturday, December 24, 2011

Christmas in South Africa year one

We had hiked up to the top of the mountain behind our place.

Our last posting from us here in South Africa was in November.  During this time the weather has gradually changed from spring like to early summer and the land has become greener as the result of periodic rains.  We are becoming more and more familiar with the climate and are relieved that the mid 30s⁰ C temperatures (upper 90s⁰ F) during several days in November did not persist for days on end.  There have been cooler days offsetting the hotter days.  Nevertheless, we have been using our electric fans to keep us cool, wear short pants often, and walk with an umbrella to shade us from the hot sun. It will probably take us some time to become used to this latitude which at 30⁰ South of the Equator is comparable to the latitude of Orlando Florida.  We have been warned that the hottest weather will show up in January and February.

Our saving is that at 2000 meters above sea level and with less annual rainfall, the climate is much drier and cooler than elsewhere nearby in South Africa.   There are other Peace Corps volunteers from our class serving west and northeast of us.  To the west the climate becomes hotter, drier, and more desert like.  To the northeast the elevation is lower and it rains more, so the climate is hotter and more humid.  We consider ourselves lucky to have avoided these two extremes.

Our work at the schools tapered off during the last half of the 4th term which ended in early December. During the last few weeks (yes weeks) exams were scheduled so classroom instructions were done before the third week of November.  Merideth and I gave final exams to our grade 4 learners in social studies and economic management systems.  During grade 4 the students start to be taught and tested in English instead of their home language (Setswana) so most of the year the success of each student depends on how well they know English.  This in turn depends on whether they are exposed to English at home.  We found many grade 4 learners had limited English comprehension so teaching them without being fluent in Setswana to translate or testing them on anything in English was questionable.  We got test results ranging from 15% to 90% because the range of abilities in each classroom is very widespread.  You pass if you get 30% or better.  The school year ended in early December.

When the new school term begins on January 16th Merideth and I expect to start a new phase of our volunteer experience.  Merideth plans to work at three of the local primary schools with small groups of learners that need help catching up with grade level.  She would also like to work with some of the foundation level (grades R-3) teachers with their work to introduce English to the curriculum.  Gary plans to work with some of the math teachers at one of the primary schools and at the high school however they think he can help.  In addition he has some other projects in the works at all four schools that will keep him busy.

For ten days in December we went to Pretoria for the last of our Peace Corps training. It was held at a nice convention center with hot showers which were a treat to most of us volunteers.   Food was provided by a buffet that was very good so most of us ate too much.  The highlight of the classes was a session about HIV/AIDS that was excellent.  After our daily classes we were able to play some volleyball and have some dance parties.  It was good to see all of our classmates again and to hear how everyone was doing at their sites.  Our next get-together as a group will be next September for a mid-service training.

We came here with fifty-six volunteers in our group.  After about five days, one man left for home on his own.   And then at about week six, an older man was sent home for medical reasons.  During our December training, one young woman was diagnosed with a serious medical condition and left for the US.  And just this week, another young woman left for personal reasons.  So the group of 56 is now at 52.  It is not unusual for Peace Corps groups to lose volunteers throughout the service period ending after two years with half of the initial numbers.

Back in our village, before the training we moved from our house down in the middle of the village up the hill to the mission where our permanent housing was located.  The PC couple we are replacing were great help to us in getting to know the village and left the Peace Corps while we were in Pretoria for training.  It was nice to move into the apartment and finally settle down.  The apartment consists of three rooms – a bedroom with attached bathroom;  a small kitchen with stove, refrigerator, cabinets, and table and adjoining half bath and sink room; and a lounge/den room containing a desk and someday a couch for relaxing.  With our move-in allowance from the Peace Corps, we purchased all of the items left behind by the departing couple.  There was even a small black & white TV that gets four channels. This inheritance of household stuff was really convenient for us and we expect to do the same for the couple that might follow us.  We consider ourselves to be very lucky to have such a nice place to live when compared to most other volunteers.  We do have to keep our doors to the outside closed at all times so that the baboons that wander around the mission grounds do not get inside and wreck the place.  We hear them run across the metal roof.

For Christmas we plan to go to Mass at the Catholic Church located about 300 feet from our apartment.  Merideth brought to Africa the two Christmas stockings she made for us back in 1976, and we have put a few items in them.  She is going to make a ham for dinner and an apple pie for dessert.  It will be quiet and relaxing.  By the way, South African wines are excellent and inexpensive.  We can buy a 5 liter box of decent red for about $10.  The Cape Town wine region is on our list of places to eventually visit.

Last week we were visited by another Peace Corps couple and all went to visit a nearby Cheetah recovery program where cheetahs, wild African dogs, and other animals are fostered in anticipation to returning them to the wild.  Our Facebook page has a picture of us petting a cheetah.

On the 30th we will fly to East London down on the Indian Ocean coast and spent ten days at the Buccaneer’s Backpackers where we can enjoy the ocean and relax.  We will tell all about that in our next chapter.

We hope everyone that reads this had a wonderful holiday and wish all a 2012 that fulfills.  We are thankful for our opportunity to experience this part of the world and are humbled by how fortunate our lives have been when compared to our fellow human beings.  Please reply to this posting with comments so we know what those reading it are thinking.